The problem is not necessarily with Java or the JVM as a technology, but rather the "Java shop culture"[1] that often goes along with it. Although I would call it "Enterprise shop culture" instead, since it seems to stem from people who (sometimes unknowingly) perpetuate big company politics and a consultant attitude, even in startups.
I've found "Java shop culture" in non-Java places as well--C#/.NET for example.
Java as a runtime is a really nice piece of technology, Java as a language is pretty good, if a bit dry.
It is the heavy-weight anti-YAGNI ecosystems that grow around it (the AbstractFactoryFactoryManager APIs that these Java shop cultures tend to produce) that makes working with Java suck, in my experience.
And yes, that stuff can be avoided if you aren't stuck working on a maintenance project and you are really careful to smash down any signs of that sort of culture growing when you see it.
I've coded with Java for... well, since it came out (C, C++, Lisp before that) and I have never worked at any place with a culture like that. In fact, in my experience, it's the Microsoft shops that have been all (wannabe) Enterprisey (yes - that is a word)
I've found "Java shop culture" in non-Java places as well--C#/.NET for example.
1. http://michaelochurch.wordpress.com/2012/04/13/java-shop-pol...