Sorry, I have to disagree with you there, as someone with decades of C and c++ experience, this is very dense, averagely-tidy, but using some very-definitely-bad-practice macros (See the definition of "SHOW").
C and C++ can look a hell of a lot better than this....
As someone who has written C professionally in the past, I agree. IMO this is fairly ugly C. Definitely can't see why someone would consider it to be beautiful.
That said, there are some neat things I've seen in the ruby C code in the past. I thought [1] was pretty clever (this pattern shows up several times in the ruby source) the first time I saw it, since it lets you access the members of the union like `foo->as.thing`, which is fairly pretty IMO.