Out of 413,842 non-empty lines of rust code in the repository (including comments) there are 2006 instances of "unsafe", 255 of which are of the form "unsafe_" (definitely not unsafe blocks, mostly of the form #![forbid(unsafe_code)] which is an instruction to the linter to forbid unsafe blocks in the module) leaving slightly less than 1751 unsafe blocks. (Still counting comments, and type signature annotations on function pointers, and so on, but most of those 1751 will be actual unsafe blocks. A block can of course be multiple lines of code).
I don't really know what a VMM consists of, so I'm mostly surprised that this project is half a million lines of code.