If you have enough way on to combat the prop walk, yes. But in a situation like backing down trying to come to a stop (at least in my boat, a 1962 Block Island 40) there's a very long "dead time" while transitioning from slowly moving forward to slowly moving in reverse where the rudder just doesn't do anything. The way I maneuver in these situations is to do all my heading corrections in forward gear, where prop wash over the rudder gives it authority. So it's a game of shots of reverse, corrections, rinse, repeat.
EDIT: also planning ahead is important, because if I do it right the prop walk in reverse can be used advantageously.
Also, with the BI-40's barn door rudder it'll slap you through the wheel if you're not careful. Almost broke my leg that way, not a lesson to forget.
Nice boat! Ye it does not look too nimble in harbours. Somewhere over 40ft with "light" boats is where I feel you get into the "you got one chance" harbour manouvers (unless there is some front sideways motor cheating).
It happens something that I really can't explain, but I guess it is weight related. Or maybe area. Dunno.
Yeah it's right around 20000lb displacement, so momentum is a real thing ;). The fiberglass is over 2" thick at the keel tapering to a mere 1" at the hull to deck joint. Decks are solid glass as well. At the time it was a newfangled material and they were scared of it so they used a lot.
Also, the bow seems to catch the wind really hard so you can get spun around if it's blowing and you head off the wind too much without enough way on. Leave room, plan ahead, have a backup plan, etc.
EDIT: also planning ahead is important, because if I do it right the prop walk in reverse can be used advantageously.
Also, with the BI-40's barn door rudder it'll slap you through the wheel if you're not careful. Almost broke my leg that way, not a lesson to forget.