As someone who's not too worried about pesticides (though I'm not 100% sanguine) but is quite disappointed with the flavor of many commercial cultivars, this is a bit more like what I hoped the 'organic' movement would've moved into. Some smaller organic producers do produce some tastier fruits/vegetables as a side effect, mostly because they don't pick them as early, but the larger organic producers use the same pick-unripe practices as regular agribusiness does, and more or less all of them use the same high-yield, watery cultivars.
I would personally be happy with something in between on cultivars. It seems that with a heritage tomato, for example, the goal is to get some crazy, knobby looking things from the 18th century in various colors that are clearly different from round, red, commercial tomatoes. But I'd be happy with round, red, commercial tomatoes from less high-yield, more flavorful varieties that produce slower-growing, less-watery tomatoes, like what's grown by the better farms in Greece or Italy. Nonetheless I can see how that'd be difficult from a branding perspective; if you're going to introduce a new cultivar and try to charge more for it, it's easier if it's really distinctive in appearance.
In case you're interested, the thing you're discussing is usually available at heritage tomato sellers (at least in California).
I am currently growing 16 different "heritage" tomato plants that are precisely low-yield less-watery cultivars from Italy and Greece in the round-red style. As you suggest, the person who sold them to me said it was hard to sell those particular plants because everyone expects heritage tomato plants to look "unusual" (as compared to my motivation, which is mainly flavor and aroma).
IIRC the chemicals that plants produce naturally to fight off pests are responsible for some of the flavor, so when you use pesticides that actually reduces the flavor somewhat because the plant no longer needs to spend energy producing those chemicals. E.g. terpenes, which are both insecticides and flavor molecules:
Unfortunately, large-scale agriculture optimizes for shipping and shelf-life and when organic producers grow large enough, they must do the same. Tomatoes are the classic example of this, but it's true for everything. For example, pretty much all the avocados available in the US are the Hass variety---because they have a nice, thick skin. But there are some really great tasting varieties that are mostly unavailable outside of Central America or the Caribbean simply because they don't transport well.
Several other varieties are available at the farmers markets in California. When I was living there, I frequently found Bacon and Zutano avocados at the Palo Alto market, for example.
This is a significant advantage of the farmer direct produce box enterprises that have sprung up everywhere. Because the fruits and vegetables are spending less time in storage and get to the consumer quicker they are often treated differently by the producer, ripening on the vine/bush/ground for longer.
I would personally be happy with something in between on cultivars. It seems that with a heritage tomato, for example, the goal is to get some crazy, knobby looking things from the 18th century in various colors that are clearly different from round, red, commercial tomatoes. But I'd be happy with round, red, commercial tomatoes from less high-yield, more flavorful varieties that produce slower-growing, less-watery tomatoes, like what's grown by the better farms in Greece or Italy. Nonetheless I can see how that'd be difficult from a branding perspective; if you're going to introduce a new cultivar and try to charge more for it, it's easier if it's really distinctive in appearance.