It’s not what the author is trying to say - they’re saying the quality of food doesn’t matter but the company does -
but what I will say, as someone who lives in the backcountry off a lot of home-grown and hunted produce, is that when I find myself in town, which is infrequently, nothing appeals more than a McDonald’s. Guilty pleasure, but eating healthy, flavourful food gets monotonous after a while.