Worst part of the tidyverse is learning it, and then looking up how to use specific functions. The bad documentation is mostly in the ggplot lib though.
The “bad” ggplot documentation is mostly a function of one’s own understanding of the grammar of graphics. That’s what the “gg” in ggplot stands for.
If you don’t understand the GG, then ggplot will seem opaque, and no goodness of documentation will suffice.
I don’t mean to blame the user. Perhaps the ggplot documentation could improve by reinforcing the need to understand that or referencing it more frequently?
It's a pleasure to use, though!