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Coober Pedy, the Australian mining town where residents live underground (2020) (businessinsider.com)
174 points by tomhoward on June 19, 2021 | hide | past | favorite | 98 comments



I grew up going on opal fossicking holidays as a kid - Coober Pedy, Mintabie, White Cliffs, Lightning Ridge, etc. We'd camp somewhere and then spend the days digging around getting filthy and finding opal, which was great fun. My maternal uncle was an opal dealer at one point in life and both he and my paternal grandfather had opal cutting/polishing setups in their sheds at some point. My dad did a work placement up there for a few months, renting an underground place.

Beside the curiosity of underground living, Coober Pedy is a grim place. Hot, dry, dirty. You couldn't pay me to live there. There's a lot of cheap accommodation on real estate sites as a result.

I passed through last year on an outback trip, and stopped there for my kids to dig around. Way back, there were countless places you could "go noodling" (fossicking) but best bet last time seemed to be Jewellers Shop Road: https://goo.gl/maps/3thJiKfzY1YQaxkY6 It's picked pretty clean, but we found a few chips (small pieces) with colour (as opposed to less valuable forms like "potch") - you just have to be patient and have fairly focused kids!

Not sure how active the surrounding area is these days. Mostly seems to be idle blowers (vac-based machines that bring material up from shafts) and mullock heaps. I think the heavy action has progressively moved up to other opal fields a few miles out of town.

The story I always liked was about opal showing up under UV lighting. They'd rip up material from shafts with blowers and pass it along a conveyor belt for pickers to watch with UV lights and grab at opal as it went by. Only issue was that scorpions also glowed... You can see prospectors talking about using this method here: https://www.prospectingaustralia.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?...

Probably my favourite memory was a place called Grasshopper in Mintabie. The operators would blast in an open cut mine with dynamite, and then huge grading machines would drag the leftover scraps up to an area they let the public pick over looking for smaller pieces of opal. We were like birds showing up on a lawn after it's been mown.

Another spot was Concrete/Cement Hill. My little brother (5yo at the time?) had become bored finding nothing and decided to make a cave house for a caterpillar he'd found. While the rest of us toiled with heavy tools, he mucked around with this bloody caterpillar, and found two pieces of opal worth $500-1000 in the process...


Cool stories, thanks for sharing. Reminds me of some places in the California desert (Trona comes to mind, just without the underground houses).


I've been near but not to Trona. Driven through Wonder Valley in California though which is pretty grim - at least that has low shrubs... This is what the area just outside Coober Pedy looks like: https://goo.gl/maps/C4E9xid1tY8CRp2f8 And closer in to the township: https://goo.gl/maps/1dZYqCgjB3nxzEfE7

Fairly inhospitable!


Having stayed in an "underground" (nowadays we'd call it passive design) BnB out there, it really is remarkably comfortable compared to the outside temperature. During the days it's bakingly hot, and freezing and dry at night; but always pleasant in the rooms, with no need for A/C or heating. Ventilation is a bit of a problem as you might expect, it got a bit stuffy.


By "stuffy" do you mean just stale air, or is there also excess humidity?


Been decades since I stayed in a cave hotel in Coober Pedy, but I have stayed in a "trog" home in France and a cave BnB in Turkey - as much as the stuffiness, it felt like there was mineral-heavy dust always in the air, from the stone walls? My nose was quite sensitive to that.


> no need for A/C or heating

Soon to be very valuable...

I think houses without a basement will drop in value in the near future.


I'm an American citizen and I needed to go to the hospital in Coober Pedy in 2009. It was after hours, so I rang the bell up front and a cheerful nurse responded on the intercom. My case was deemed sufficient to merit a response, so the nurse and a doctor both came over at once and booted up the place. I got my exam, some crutches, and a prescription in about an hour and $45.

Also all the water is trucked in, so shower stalls are often coin-fed. Works OK except when there is no warning that you're about to run out of water and your face is covered in soap. Makes it hard to find and fidget with coins.


> Also all the water is trucked in, so shower stalls are often coin-fed. Works OK except when there is no warning that you're about to run out of water and your face is covered in soap.

Seems like you'd get used to it quickly.

In Chinese apartments (in Shanghai, at least), there is a small water heater dedicated to the shower. It stores a certain amount of water at a temperature you configure, and when it runs out, your shower will be cold. (You're expected to set it much hotter than you want the shower, and mix it with cold water, which is unlimited, to get the shower temperature you want.)

This means it's impossible to take a two-hour hot shower. But it also means the showering process doesn't include "step 0: wait a few minutes for hot water to start coming out of the shower". When you turn on the hot water, you get hot water. It's really soured me on the American system.


> it also means the showering process doesn't include "step 0: wait a few minutes for hot water to start coming out of the shower". When you turn on the hot water, you get hot water. It's really soured me on the American system.

The "American System" such as it is, is a byproduct of increasing efficiency. If you buy an old house, built when shower heads were 5GPM, the piping was sized to handle that load. When you switch to 2.5GPM shower heads (mandated as the maximum by federal law in 1994), or lower (1.25GPM is easy to find and what I use) then you've got 4X the amount of water setting in the pipes that needs to be slowly flushed out.

Any competent builders of new homes will minimize the size of hot water pipes to greatly reduce the amount of cold water that needs to be flushed out. Instead of 3/4 or 1/2" pipes, 3/8" or even 1/4" pipes may be adequate for a 1.8GPM (California 2018 maximum) shower, and greatly reduces the amount of cold water standing in the pipes.

The US system of using natural gas (or electric heat pumps) offers about 4X better energy efficiency than smaller resistive electric point-of-use water heaters. In warmers climates (southern US, and much of Asia) the difference can be small. And the centralized US system can be retrofitted easily enough. There are pump systems which can be installed under bathroom sinks where you just push a button and the cold water is pumped through, automatically shutting off when it becomes warm/hot.


Increasing energy efficiency, mayhaps, but running cold water in a shower for several min while you wait for it to heat up is not very water efficient.


You’re still flushing about* the same amount of water out of the pipes though. It just takes longer with a water efficient shower head. And as the parent poster points out this is solved by using smaller pipes.

* some of the hot water may cool while you wait so there may be a marginal amount of extra wastage at the outset.


> It's really soured me on the American system.

What American systems? There's lots of different water heating setups in the US, including “small dedicated tankless heater for the shower”, whole house tankless or hybrid system, etc., etc...


Another place I stayed in Coober Pedy on another visit had a warning at 15 seconds which mitigated the problem. Both places only let you load up five minutes of shower time, and I found that my showers took 7-8 minutes.


you know you can install tankless heaters at the shower in the US if you want instant hot water?

sinks too, theyre even easier. you can find kits at Home Depot.


Tankless water heaters have a downside in that there's a minimum amount of flow before the heater turns on. I stayed at an Airbnb in Italy where I had to continuously run the sink in order to take a warm shower that wasn't scalding hot or cold. I also had to run the bathroom sink to get hot water at all in the kitchen because the kitchen faucet alone wasn't enough to trigger the heater!


Normally that starts to happen when the rubber diaphragms and o-rings in the pressure differential valves get old and break down.


The last three places I've lived in the United States all had tankless systems.

Like most comments on HN, "American System" is a gross oversimplification of a nation of almost 400 million people and experiences.


I can't count the number of time Americans (from all over the States) have explained to me how diverse America actually is. Ironically it's only Americans who've done this.


Well it's usually when someone from outside America says "Americans do it this way" based on their vacations or even single trips to a single point in America, having stayed in an AirBNB or hotel or something.

To actual American citizens you might as well be characterizing France from your experience in Germany just because they're both in the EU.


Germany and France are pretty similar TBH. Though, like Americans, Europeans also get mad when you point out they are not as diverse as they imagine.

It's really hard to talk about things when you can't generalize a bit.

"100 million American homes have things set up this way" - oh no, let's divert the discussion to worry about the one guy who has a fully custom setup!


As an American, most places that I've lived in across the country had a delay before the hot water kicked in. Of course anyone can modify their home to do whatever they want, but we're discussing the average system in place in most residences.

It's not a "gross oversimplification" if it's the typical result.


> It's really soured me on the American system.

Tankless hot water systems have been available for awhile. Sounds like this is what you want to install.

Couple this with a pump/recirculation system and you'll have instant, endless hot water from any faucet or shower.

Granted, you won't have this option if you're renting and at the mercy of a landlord. But you can look for this in future apartments.

Some condo associations won't let you install them as it requires additional external piping for air intake and exhaust.


> This means it's impossible to take a two-hour hot shower.

Do you actually have the habit of taking two-hour hot showers on a running shower? How incredibly wasteful would that be?


Why not just take ambient-temperature showers, and save hot ones for special occasions, if ever?


In my town, outside of Boston, the water coming out of the faucets in mid-June is about 55F without mixing in hot water; an ambient-temperature shower might be reasonable for a week or three per year.


What's the American system?


You turn on the hot water, and you get cold water. Then you sit and wait for a few minutes until you start getting hot water.


I have taken literally thousands of showers in America and that isn't consistent with my experience at all. If it takes more than ten seconds for my shower to heat up, it means that the water heater is dead and waiting any longer won't make a difference. The only place I've had to wait longer than that (but still not long enough that I'd go sit down to wait) is at some hotels, maybe because their plumbing is longer?


You may have lived mostly in apartments or small homes. In larger or multi-story homes, the water heater may be some distance from the shower.


I grew up in a multi-story ~1700 sq ft home where I took daily showers on the second floor, traditional tanked hot water heater in the basement. Took < 20 seconds for water to turn hot.


Well then I take it all back?


I've stayed in places where it can take a minute or longer for the hot water to show up.


Yea, it's most homes, and apartments.

The cost to remodel, and permit proses, causes owners to just live with it.

The drought should make the plumbing permit free.

Too many small towns, and even rich counties, are counting on those permit fees for income.


You still sit and wait though? Of course 10 seconds is not comparable to a few minutes, but the mechanism seems like it would be the same.


You turn on the hot water, and you get cold water. Then you sit and wait for a few minutes until you start getting hot water.

Depends on where you are. In places I've lived in the southwest, you turn on the hot water and you immediately get hot water. You turn on the cold water, and you immediately get very warm water.

Because it's the desert. And the water comes from outside, so it assumes the ambient temperature. In the winter you might get "cold" water, but it's nothing like the cold water you get in places like Boston or Minneapolis.


Had similar experience in Beppu, Japan. Not only is it at the southern tip oj Kyushu, but also very vulcanic with hot springs everywhere - like, there is actual scolding steam comming out of pavement in some places, specially in the Kanawa district!

At first I wondered why they have those mini fridges in japanese hotel rooms and this is why - only way to get cold water in the summer is t put it into the fridge first! :)


Mini-fridges are just a really nice amenity though. :)


A few minutes is an exaggeration. I would guess 15-30 seconds. Obviously it will depend on location. Some places it happens faster, some places slower. But I'm fairly certain I've never had to wait more than 60 seconds anywhere in the US.

In fact I just went and checked with my shower - 23 seconds. And I haven't used any hot water since last night.


No, it can take a few minutes. A big factor is the diameter of the pipes used to carry the hot water. See: This Old House videos on the topic. Bigger is NOT better here; a larger pipe may take several minutes to empty out of cold water before hot water starts reaching you.

In the rental house we just moved from a couple months ago, the last homeowner did several amateur projects (or hired a handyman who worked at that level). They fitted a larger, elevated water heater, but also "upgraded" the water pipes in the attic to a ridiculously large diameter. Between that and the rental property management fitting water-saving low-flow fixtures, you could turn on a hot water faucet and go boil tea on an electric kettle (or something) in the meantime. By the time you're done drinking the tea, the running water might be getting warm.


I believe you, but my hunch is you're an outlier. I've lived probably a dozen places in the US, not to mention the likely hundreds of places I've slept throughout my life. I don't recall every having to wait more than a minute for hot water.

Ultimately this is just my anecdata. Maybe your story is more common than I realize.


Anywhere can have plumbing issues and having wide hot water pipes is a problem as it waste energy when they cool down.

In such cases run the hot water in your sink it dramatically increases the flow rate. Alternatively, install a tankless water heater next to the shower.


Long waits are more common than you think. Suppose you have 100 feet of 3/4" pipe and a 1 gpm showerhead, it takes 2.3 minutes for water to move from your water heater to the showerhead. And you not only have to move the water, but heat up the pipe itself, so it takes even longer. I'm living in such a home now. I'll be installing a recirculation loop as I remodel. And probably some point-of-use heaters.


Coober Pedy was highlighted in an episode of Instant Hotel on Netflix here https://www.netflix.com/title/81023011


It was a good episode! I can hear the locals talking in my head just remembering it. It’s worth a watch if you’re into architectural television.


Tom Scott had a fascinating video about the town a while back. Well, it was supposed to be about the town, and its water supply in particular, but became a video about the reliability of research and videos you find online.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaGTFeibOEk


Erik Anders Lang also has a neat video of their "golf" course: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMpr0ShaQak


Some additional background on the reciprocal rights they enjoy with St. Andrews in Scotland:

https://www.espn.com.au/golf/story/_/id/13173734/st-andrews-...


Well that was delightful!


I loved visiting Coober Pedy. It reminded me of The Flintstones - you're in a room carved out of the rock and yet there's a TV in the corner.

Also it's a real "prospector town" since the massive mining companies consider it cost inefficient to mine there at scale so it's full of characters.


I'm struggling with this sentence:

The town of Coober Pedy is only accessible by a small airstrip, by coach tour or private car, and via the Ghan railway line running between Darwin and Adelaide.

So... it's "only" accessible by air, automobile, or rail? Does their readership travel exclusively by steamship? Camel?


It is accessible by car, but only after 850km (528 miles) driving through mostly empty desert. I guess the author wanted to convey the isolation of the town, but the wording just turned out very awkward because yeah, despite the huge distances from anywhere else, the place is actually quite accessible if you have the time to spend on the way there (or the money to get a plane there somehow).


A ticket on the Ghan starts at around $2600, it's a luxury service ... it's not "rail" like you might suppose.

It _is_ a weird sentence though. I guess they wanted to say its only accessible by road?

But that's also a bit weird as that describes 98% of towns in Australia.


Even just "private car". What an odd way to say you drive there. Aka the only way to get to most towns. Having a railway and airstrip makes Coober Pedy more well connected than most.

I think that might be the most rarely leaves megacities sentence I've ever read.


I would guess they prefer major airstrips to fly directly into? Maybe the implication of small airstrip is that it is only chartered planes and therefore super expensive? But yeah, I also thought that was funny


Even then, you can fly from the nearest capital Adelaide in two hours for AU$300. Anyone sane is likely to be doing it by road as part of a trip from Adelaide to Uluru/Alice Springs/Darwin.


Virtually anywhere around the coast of Australia (at least from Cairns clockwise to Perth) is accessible by public transport. The point they're making is that the outback is very much not.


You could also get there by camel (loads of feral camels north of there) and bike (I've seen people crossing the continent on bikes). So, pretty much just rules out watercraft and large planes!


bicycles?

I read a really good blog series of articles about an american riding his touring bicycle from adelaide to darwin. He had to calculate his water and calories as towns were often over a days ride apart.

Quite a few cars and trucks on the highway though. You would only have to wait an hour at most for a stranger to drive by, stop and help in an emergency.


Yes, bicycles. Also once saw someone presumably walking the 3,000 km, pulling a wheeled supply cart.


If you're in the western hemisphere and want to experience cave homes without going all the way to Australia I highly recommend Goreme and all of Cappadocia in Turkey. They have hotels built into cave homes thousands of years old, open air museums with cave cities and complexes from thousands of years ago. I went there because my girlfriend wanted to ride hot air balloons but I ended up loving it and being blown away by all the ancient ruins https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/357/gallery/


I also highly recommend that area. My brother and I had an amazing day where we climbed out of the regular paths and walked around for dozens of kilometres exploring valleys and climbing up into remote carved corridors and rooms. Found some incredible terrain.

If you're in the USA, you can find something similar to Cappadocia in Bandolier National Monument, New Mexico. Similar geology in the carved volcanic ash/tuff, plus a nice campground within walking distance.


Scenes from the 1980s movie "Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome" were filmed at Coober Pedy


Kind of funny that it mentions the distance to Canberra instead of the state capital Adelaide. No one cares where Canberra is except for politicians, sorry canberrans


Isn't Canberra the capital because all the other cities couldn't agree on who gets to be the capital? Like what happened with Washington?


yes Melbourne and Sydney competed, and they settled for some nowhere in the middle, literally.


People living in places like this must have great protection for some disasters, such as if the moon blew up suddenly and without warning.


In one way, I guess. But only if they had a stash of tinned food. There wouldn't be much in the way of well-stocked supermarkets up there to raid, and then you'd have little to no access to water or growing your own food. I'd probably take my chances almost anywhere else than ride out a shock and then have to survive in that area!


Hey, fellow connoisseur! Points fingers at my and your noses.


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I’ve been here and it’s very interesting talking to locals and seeing the place. The article SHOULD have mentioned the golf club! It’s basically desert and rocks and twinned with St Andrews! Brilliant!


Yeah it’s an otherworldly place. When we visited it also absolutely heaved down with rain which was a surprise!


Must have been a bit of a relief, too!


This 3-minute video is better than the BI download and read.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZY2pvCldIi0


Related - China's loess houses

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yaodong


Also, Cappadocia in Turkey: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cappadocia


Sounds like one of the many whistlestops your party will stop in to rest, buy equipment, and sidequest in a JRPG.

And the name makes it sound like a great place to host a KubeCon.



White Cliffs is a similar town in New South Wales, though an order of magnitude smaller. Worth a visit if you're spending some time in the Broken Hill area.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_Cliffs,_New_South_Wales


My grandfather was the first white person born in White Cliffs. He didn't see another white kid until he was 12 years old. Due to his running with the indigenous kids, he became a great bushman, knowing law and language.


The council there recently sold off properties where rates had not been paid: https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-06-16/coober-pedy-auction-r...


Interesting engineering note at the end of the article: “However, most mining is fully mechanized today.”


That note made me wonder what exactly mechanized opal mining looks like.


At the time I visited in 2015, the residents told me that boring out a family home cost in the realm of $150,000 AUD which seemed like a bargain compared to the (still?) red hot Sydney real estate market.


You couldn’t convince people to move to Coober Pedy if you paid them $150,000 to move there. The place is an interesting tourist attraction but the last place you would want to live.


Sure, but then you end up living in Coober Pedy. For slightly more you can live in a basic house/unit regionally, or for twice the price, a nice house in a nice regional town.


There’s an opal line going right through the centre of Coober Pedy. Most who built there made a profit from the boring part, and extensions are a good way to make money too.


coober pedy means 'white man in a hole'

with all that going around, i laughed


My favourite tale is about how the kangaroo got its name.

The story goes, way back when, the white settlers/invaders were going around with aborigines asking them what different plants and animals were called.

The white fella pointed to a kangaroo and asked what's that called? the aboriginal said "kangaroo" which in his language translated to "i don't know", and so it was recorded and why we now called them kangaroos.

unfortunately it's not true :( kangaroo is from an aboriginal language, but it doesn't mean "i don't know"


Wait until you find out where the "Moomba" festival in Melbourne got its name.


I have nothing to add but another pop culture reference from my childhood: Coober Pedy is one of the locations that the Cahill siblings visit in the sixth 39 Clues book, In Too Deep.


Reminds me of Ellinwood, KS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqGk3b-9wkQ


see also: flash forward podcast episode, could we all live underground? https://www.flashforwardpod.com/2021/05/25/could-we-all-live...



Making your underground home in sandstone reminds me of Minecraft in real life! Very cool (literally).


In the 1800's and early 1900's, it was not uncommon for miners in the American southwest to build homes into the ground, simply because there was no other material available.

If you go to Shoshone, California, you can wander around their abandoned cave homes. There's a bunch across the street from the Inyo County Sheriff's substation. Just go up the dirt road, around the hill, past the cemetery.


That's cool! I do wonder about a few things....

- How does the sewage system work?

- Do worms come into the living spaces?


It's solid sandstone, there's no soil for worms.




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