I've become a large user of PET-G for some of the reasons you outline. I've never had a problem with strength the way that I use it in my designs, PET-G is plenty durable for a small device which spends 99% of its life inside a larger device. Also the heat resistance makes it tolerate the summer heat of cars which is also important.
Also PET-G has the added benefit of not giving me cancer like ABS. It definitely has a learning curve and I wouldn't fault anyone for going other routes rather than taking the time to get a feel for it.
My printer prints PETG pretty cleanly with no fuss. I imagine if someone used the same exact printer (Prusa i3 MK3), the same exact filament (eSun), my same exact settings (https://github.com/dheera/3d/blob/master/settings/slic3r-con...), and my same exact textured bed sheet, same exact procedure (Windex, then Magigoo, then print), they should have zero problems as well. It's not even tricky. It prints just like PLA with this "recipe".
The only problem seems to be that there is a lot of conflicting information about what works for PETG but people just need to think in terms of configuration sets like the above. If you use the Prusa PETG settings with eSun filament it fails miserably -- the prints come off the bed mid-print.
Also PET-G has the added benefit of not giving me cancer like ABS. It definitely has a learning curve and I wouldn't fault anyone for going other routes rather than taking the time to get a feel for it.