I use a very similar setup (based on unbound): for Stackoverflow to properly work you need to whitelist ajax.googleapis.com.
> it makes life bearable in China without a VPN
If you're already a firefox user, you might try the "FoxyProxy Standard" extension to selectively bypass the GFW for the domains you need. Friends in China are reporting a varying degree of success with setting up forwarding on Apache (TLS1.3 with padding). Obvs, don't forget to set authentication. Once you're there you can add your own DoH to the mix.
> it makes life bearable in China without a VPN
If you're already a firefox user, you might try the "FoxyProxy Standard" extension to selectively bypass the GFW for the domains you need. Friends in China are reporting a varying degree of success with setting up forwarding on Apache (TLS1.3 with padding). Obvs, don't forget to set authentication. Once you're there you can add your own DoH to the mix.