I'm in total agreement with you. I've tried different ORMs in different languages and I am always disappointed in how lackluster they feel in comparison to the Django ORM.
There are several things that bother me about using Django, but because of the ORM and it's tight integration with the rest of the system I don't think there is a more productive environment for me.
That being said I'm not a great developer. As a business-minded person who codes out of necessity, I find the Django tooling to be the right way to work most of the time.
Not having to deal with migrations is a thing of beauty.
I've hand-written sql (the good old days of mysql_real_escape_string) and I've used some ORMs.
Django stands out because of their code first-approach for models: You define models in Python and they generate migrations based on that.
That makes updating very easy and also quite robust, as a simple makemigrations call in the CI ensures your DB is not out of sync.