At some point in the development of a large app you run into irreducible complexity. The logic and moving parts are just necessarily complicated and nobody is going to fully understand the system. It doesn’t matter what architecture you use, hard is hard. I think people tend to forget this and build a house of cards trying in vain to correct it.
Okay, but there are a lot of ways to split up & scale projects and teams besides microservices. What's needed is a guide for scaling that considers all the common options and their tradeoffs, and how to measure those tradeoffs against your own shop.
